Achieving a Contemporary Perm for Trendy Waves or Curls: A Guide

One of the most notable comeback trends is the resurgence of perm hair. There is considerable buzz about how modern perms can give women an exciting new look.

As a perm specialist, I am seeing many new clients seeking perm treatments. While the 1980s perm reputation was mixed, we can now welcome a new generation of modern perms that deliver beautiful results.

A perm is a curly or wavy style created by rolling hair around perm rods and applying heat. Before beginning, the hair must be prepared by washing with a sulfate‑free shampoo. The wet hair is then wrapped around the selected rods. After the hair is rolled, a perm lotion and a neutralizer are applied; together they set the hair in its new shape. Processing takes about 1½ to 2½ hours from start to finish, depending on hair length and thickness.

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Nowadays, there are several methods for perming hair, resulting in a variety of perm styles. You can opt for a traditional perm, as described above, using modern products that reduce hassle. Another option is to achieve a loose, beach‑y texture for a permanent wave in straight hair:

What Is a Perm?

Another option is a bouncy, voluminous curly perm, which works well if you aim for a trendy curly shag cut. These tight, corkscrew curls are also known as a spiral perm.

There is also a digital perm, a hot method that wraps hair around digitally heated rods and uses a perm solution to set the curls. This technique is very popular in several countries, such as Japan and South Korea, and it works well for adding body waves and movement to the lower portion of the hair.

Modern perms differ greatly from those of our grandmother’s generation. Contemporary techniques employ the latest perm‑solution technology. Instead of wrapping hair around tiny, rigid plastic rods, larger, flexible foam rods of various sizes are now used.

What Are Different Perming Methods?

This creates curls and waves that vary in size and direction, giving a natural, believable look. No two curls or waves are identical. Modern perm lotion is gentler on the hair, and the product I use is ammonia‑free. Because it lacks ammonia, the solution penetrates the hair less deeply, so the perm does not last as long as traditional formulas. It functions as a semi‑permanent perm, which appeals to many first‑time clients.

Perms typically last from two to ten months, depending on the type chosen and how well you maintain the hair. To care for permed hair, handle it gently for the first three days, avoiding washing or tying it up. During this period the perm is still setting, so keep the hair down to prevent kinks.

It’s advisable to cut your hair before a perm, trimming the ends and adding long layers. The layers create movement and reduce the weight of long hair, helping the curls and waves hold longer without being weighed down.

How Do Modern Perms Differ from Perms of the Past?

Perms can be applied to any hair type or length, provided the hair follicles are not heavily damaged by bleach or heat‑styling tools. A perm uses a chemical solution to alter your natural texture, so it is best to begin with healthy hair (more on that later).

The perm works well for people with flat, straight hair who want added volume and movement. It dramatically changes their appearance and offers a fun alternative to their usual style. Ideal candidates are those with virgin hair who have not dyed their hair but regularly use a curling iron or sleep with braids to create waves and texture.

How Long Does Hair Perm Last?

Perms are also beneficial for people with wavy or curly hair whose curl pattern has diminished over time. They effectively restore bounce, allowing the recreation of tighter, childhood‑like curls.

If you regularly dye your hair, schedule the color two weeks before or two weeks after the perm. Perms are ineffective on heavily bleached hair, so extensive highlighting over the past five years may make this treatment unsuitable. However, appropriate reparative treatments can still make it work.

Do Perms Suit All Types of Hair?

If your hair tends to frizz and you want to eliminate it, consider a keratin blow‑dry rather than a perm. Curly hair is naturally frizzy, so you should learn to treat it properly and accept some frizz. This is an important point for anyone considering a perm.

This question comes up frequently. As long as the hair is initially healthy, it will not be damaged. I begin each appointment with a consultation to assess the hair’s health and structure. If the hair follicle is weakened, the perm will not be as bouncy or attractive as intended and could cause additional damage.

I do not recommend home perm kits. The process is intricate and can cause damage if the chemicals are left on too long or not rinsed properly, often resulting in unsatisfactory curls. Having a professional perform the perm ensures safer application and the desired outcome.

The shower is an ideal time to comb your hair after perming. Before rinsing out the conditioner, use your fingers or a wide‑toothed comb to separate the curls and detangle any knots. After leaving the shower, run your fingers through your hair again while applying styling products, then spend a few minutes scrunching the hair upward to create bouncy curls.

Avoid brushing hair when it’s dry; the curls will lose definition and become frizzy, as most natural curly‑heads know. Most of my clients let their perm air‑dry after washing, but you can also use a diffuser on a low speed and heat setting. Tilt your head upside down and cup the hair into the plastic diffuser while drying. Try to avoid blasting the hair with a hairdryer that has no diffuser, as this will make perms big and fluffy—​not a good look.

Do Perms Damage Your Hair?

Below is a list of products I recommend for maintaining your perms in excellent condition:

When you want to update your look, consider a modern perm. Follow @permedhair and @lily.colour for the latest perming techniques and hair tips. Message me on Instagram for a free international online consultation to learn how a modern perm could benefit you.

How to Take Care of Permed Hair Texture?

The shower is always the best time to comb your hair, once you have perms. Before you rinse off the conditioner, comb through the hair using your fingers or a wide-toothed comb to separate the curls and tease out any knots. Once you are out of the shower, comb through your hair with your fingers again while you apply you`r styling products, and then spend a few minutes scrunching the hair upward to make the curls bouncy.

It’s important to avoid brushing when the hair is dry; the curls will lose their definition and become frizzy (as most natural curlyheads know). Most of my clients leave their perm to air dry after washing, but you can also use a diffuser on a low speed and heat setting. Tip your head upside down, and cup the hair up into the plastic diffuser to dry. Try to avoid blasting the hair using a hairdryer with no diffuser, as this will make perms big and fluffy. Not a good look!

What Are the Best Products for Permed Hair?

Here’s a list of products I recommend to keep your perms in great condition:

• Aveda “Be Curly” Curl Enhancer. Apply a small amount to hair after scrunching dry with a T-shirt or towel. Scrunch into hair in an upward motion and leave it to do its curl-enhancing magic.
• Kiehl’s Silk Groom Serum. A great portable product to keep in your bag for use during the day if any curls or waves get a bit flyaway. Rub a small bit between palms and smooth down the hair.
• L’Oréal TECNI.ART “Fix Anti-Frizz” Hairspray. Once your perms are dry and looking great, spray a layer of this all over the top to seal the moisture and keep hair frizz-free in humid weather.
• Twisted Sista 30-Second Curl Spray. When you wake up in the morning, the hair can sometimes be a bit flat, so spray this onto dry hair to revive the curls and bring the perms back to life.
• Slip Silk Pillowcase. Everyone should have a silk pillowcase. They’re so good for the skin and hair, and it will help keep your perms in top condition while you’re dreaming of your next holiday.
• Organic Color System “Keep Curl” Shampoo and Conditioner. With an amazing range for permed hair, both products are sulfate-free and contain gluten-free wheat protein that is great for moisture and shine.

Next time you’re looking to change up your style, the modern perm could well be the way to go. Follow my pages @permedhair & @lily.colour to see all the latest in perming techniques and hair tips. DM me on Instagram, where I offer free international online consultations for those who would like to see what the modern perm can do for them.

Featured image by @medinahair204